The questions we get every day

Fair question, and I own both — I had three boats and nine kayaks before these, and I still keep a boat club membership for family days and running offshore. These aren’t a replacement for a boat; they’re a different category. What changed is where I fish. I sold three boats after getting these, because in the winter back country they outfished everything I had. Where I go now, a boat isn’t getting there at all.

If you’re going full skiff — getting up on plane, running a gas motor, using that 700 lb capacity — go L4. It’s the longer board. The L2 is the shorter one, and it’s the right call if you’re lighter, if it’s for a teenager, or if you want a board that’s easier to handle and load. I get emails about this every week, so call me and I’ll match it to your weight and your water.

The front rubber keel guards take the impact, and the coating is pretty bombproof. It’s a sacrificial layer that protects the fiberglass underneath — and we give every customer lifetime touch-ups, in our shop or by mailing you liquid once a year.

Yes — whatever you throw at it. We’re from the Nature Coast, where rocks, limestone and oyster beds are pretty much all we have. The keel guard runs about three and a half feet up the bow because that’s what takes the brunt, on oysters and on cement boat ramps. If it wears through after a couple of years, rip it off and put another one on.

You trim the board just like a boat, and the catamaran hull slices right through it. The deck is sealed, so if water comes over, it just funnels off — there’s nothing to fill up. There’s a ton of footage on YouTube of us running in real chop.

No. It’s a completely sealed deck — no bilge, nothing to fill up. If water comes over, it just funnels right off. You stay dry.

Stability and weight are the obvious wins, but speed is the one people miss. A 6 hp on a heavy plastic V hull gets you somewhere around 9 to 10 mph. Our catamaran setups hit 20 mph unloaded and still push 15 mph with a 500 lb load. You don’t need big horsepower when you’ve got the right hull under you.

There’s no comparison on speed and distance — a 6 hp gas wins all day. The electric is perfect for stealthy runs, about 8 miles at 12 mph, more with an external battery. Call us and we’ll match it to how and where you fish.

Every build is different, so we don’t post one price. Configure your rig on the site to see a live estimate, then give us a call — we’ll tell you where to spend and where to save and get it right the first time.

Yes — we ship anywhere in the country, and we run road-trip deliveries by hand when we can (it’s cheaper and there’s less chance of damage). We’ve set up owners from Maine to North Dakota to Hawaii. We’ll drive to you.

No. Plenty of people paddle and catch fish all day. But if you want to cover more water, beat the wind, or fish longer, a motor changes everything. Start simple and add one when you’re ready.

No — a mud motor isn’t what gets you skinny. Our engines are kickers, so if you touch bottom they just pop up, and we run a cut prop with a weed-cutting design. If you’ve got three inches, send it. The one real reason to want a mud motor is heavy brush that a standard engine can’t push through.

Because a four is a six. It’s the same engine — they just put a bigger carb on it to call it a six. So if you’re going bigger than the two and a half, go straight to the six. You’re not saving anything real by stopping in the middle.

Some people say no, then they fish with us for a day and buy one. Here’s the case: you’re motoring along, you spot a school 50 yards off, and you need to stop right there. If you’re unstrapping a manual spike and setting it, you’ve made noise and the fish are gone. You hit a button instead, and you’re already casting.

Two reasons. One, I’m not going to lose it. Two, we’ll be running 10 or 15 mph, spot a big school, and need to anchor down right then — there’s no time to pull a spike out and strap it in. It costs you a little turn radius, and if you need to turn sharper, you just turn sharper.

Easily. It’s still a paddle board — just the only fiberglass catamaran one in existence — so it paddles great, and it poles fine even loaded down. Motoring is maybe 10% of our day out there. The other 90% is paddling, poling and fishing.

Depends on your goals. When you call, I’ll ask what you fish and where you fish it — the water you run matters more than anything — and then tell you exactly what I’d run. We’ve tested just about everything.

We trust it to say the least. The LIVE catamaran hull has a huge air pocket underneath that suctions to the water and locks you down. You can stand, walk around, and even stand on a cooler to sight-fish. We’ve literally towed grown men who fell off their boats.

Absolutely — that’s how a lot of folks do it. Start with the board and a paddle, add bottom coating and a trolling motor when you’re ready, throw a gas motor on down the road. Everything bolts on and off. Grow with the rig.

Not at all. Throw it in a truck bed, strap it to the roof, or trailer it — one person can handle it, and they stack two or three high. A Suspenz cart makes loading and launching about as easy as it gets.

Not a single hole. Every plate goes on with kayak T-bolts and nuts, straight into the 12 tracks that are already on the board, and all the holes in our plates are pre-drilled. It’s the question I get most weeks, and the answer is that it’s far simpler than people expect.

A couple of minutes. They’re regular T-bolts with brass inserts — pull them and the front and back plates lift right off, and you’ve got a plain paddle board for a family beach day or an exercise paddle. Bolt them back on and you’re a 20 mph skiff again.

If you’re running it as a skiff, get the aluminum. Plastic tracks are perfectly fine for paddling — but when you’re doing 23 mph with plates and a motor bolted on, you want tracks that will never break on you. It’s a small upgrade on a big investment.

Usually not — we run too skinny for fins to do much. The L4 is the longer board and tracks great without them. The L2 is shorter and snakes a little, so it benefits from fins. If you do want fins, we recommend gummy fins so you’re not snapping anything on the beach.

The bare hull is about 65 lbs with a 700 lb capacity — roughly 635 lbs of usable capacity. On a small gas or electric motor it’ll run around 20 mph and get up on plane, all on a hull that runs in just a few inches of water.

No worries — we’ll spend as long as it takes on the phone getting you dialed in. Tune-in days are free and we walk through setup, weight distribution, balance, motor use and safety so you leave confident. When we do get you on the water, we’ll even break your motor in while we’re out there.

People assume we contract it out. We don’t. Austin and I do all of it — we manufacture the plates here in Florida, we install every mount, micro pole and battery by hand, and we do the bottom coating ourselves. The boards themselves are handmade in Clearwater, not molded and not shipped in. Nothing on your rig is off-the-shelf plastic from overseas.